Housed in a shiny new building boasting some ostentatiously Angkor-shaped turrets, with a spacious, clean and bright interior, this isn't like the average Asian museum that I've previously encountered. Consequently the entry fee is currently a relatively pricey $8 and this at the special promotional price until it goes up to $12 mid-December. I can only assume this is the date they actually expect to finish the museum as, despite assurances as I entered that it was just the attached shopping mall that was yet to be completed, the place was 80% complete (a figure cheerily suggested to my by way of reassurance on my exit). So as well as audio tours not being yet available, there were various plinths and information boards frustratingly still waiting to be populated, particularly towards the end of the tour. There was also a total absence of exhibit labels to mark where and when the statues came from. This was irritating not just because I always like to locate the oldest exhibit, but such was the exquisite detail on some of the statues, I started to wonder whether many of them were replicas. For example one had all 7 heads, 4 feet and 19 of its 20 arms intact!
Small labels with dates and place of discovery was pretty much the only information available in the National museum in Phnom Penh and one might argue that it's simply a bigger, modern version of the same thing in a bigger, modern building. Indeed I wonder how many exhibits have been transferred from there now that Siem Reap obviously been seem as the preferable location to catch the tourist dollar. Also, where the predominant feature of the capital's version was statues, there were some other tools and utensils, plus a fantastic wooden junk - whereas the new is pretty much just statues.
However, it is the modern feel and layout of the place with the presence of these video presentations and information boards which made the experience a good one for me. I have to confess I'm so accustomed to being led around Western museums in some sort of chronological order learning about things, I was quite glad to stand and absorb information rather than ploughing through thick guide books.
The tour begins upstairs in the briefing hall with an appropriately short film about the museum, while accustoming you to the enthusiastic and, to this native ear, slightly strange intonation of the English speaking narrators. Next to the 'exclusive gallery' of the 1000 Buddha Images Room which was certainly a highlight and a joyful antidote to all the other drab looking museums on my travels so far. A wonderfully decorated and arranged room of all sorts of different Buddha images, beautifully lit, and possibly by next year there will actually be 1000 of them, the attendant noting there were currently only 868. Unfortunately he couldn't tell me whether the small figurines in the surrounding glass shelves were all original specimens.
You then continue through three galleries: pre-Angkor Period Khmer Civilisation, Pre Angkor Period: Religion and Beliefs and The Great Khmer Kings. On the latter, they hedge their bets by describing 5 or 6 of the kings as being 'one of the greatest' but then later on rather rashly declare Jayavarma VII to be the greatest on an information board, only to downgrade him again to one of the greatest in the accompanying video, perhaps not wanting to put the others nose out of joint twice.
Then downstairs to galleries on Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Story from Stones and Ancient Costumes, the latter remarkably devoid of any actual costume replicas save those worn by the dancing girls in the video, though again some very fine statues. The leaflet promised I would learn how Angkor Wat was constructed, but I expected a bit more detail than basics such as how far they dragged the stones. There was quite a bit of detail about the compassionate Jayavarma VII and his construction of a network of roads, 'homes of light' and hospices as well as his defeat of the Cham and construction of Angkor Thom, all of which amounts to a pretty good CV. So although as far as I know he never claimed to move like a butterfly and sting like a bee, I think 'the greatest' title is well deserved.
In summary then, for those who like museums, this should soon be a very informative and interesting one and a welcome change from the typical cluttered room full of items you have to guess at. The admission fee will likely put of most backpackers who've already forked out the (infinitely better value for money) $20/40 for a pass to the temples and admittedly the idea of having a shopping mall attached does indicate it's whole purpose is to pull in the coachloads of wealthy retirees. However, for those willing to retain a grip on the reality of the value of things and stump up, I think by 2008 this museum may well be worth a visit as a scene setter before going exploring and discovering the temples for oneself.
Small labels with dates and place of discovery was pretty much the only information available in the National museum in Phnom Penh and one might argue that it's simply a bigger, modern version of the same thing in a bigger, modern building. Indeed I wonder how many exhibits have been transferred from there now that Siem Reap obviously been seem as the preferable location to catch the tourist dollar. Also, where the predominant feature of the capital's version was statues, there were some other tools and utensils, plus a fantastic wooden junk - whereas the new is pretty much just statues.
However, it is the modern feel and layout of the place with the presence of these video presentations and information boards which made the experience a good one for me. I have to confess I'm so accustomed to being led around Western museums in some sort of chronological order learning about things, I was quite glad to stand and absorb information rather than ploughing through thick guide books.
The tour begins upstairs in the briefing hall with an appropriately short film about the museum, while accustoming you to the enthusiastic and, to this native ear, slightly strange intonation of the English speaking narrators. Next to the 'exclusive gallery' of the 1000 Buddha Images Room which was certainly a highlight and a joyful antidote to all the other drab looking museums on my travels so far. A wonderfully decorated and arranged room of all sorts of different Buddha images, beautifully lit, and possibly by next year there will actually be 1000 of them, the attendant noting there were currently only 868. Unfortunately he couldn't tell me whether the small figurines in the surrounding glass shelves were all original specimens.
You then continue through three galleries: pre-Angkor Period Khmer Civilisation, Pre Angkor Period: Religion and Beliefs and The Great Khmer Kings. On the latter, they hedge their bets by describing 5 or 6 of the kings as being 'one of the greatest' but then later on rather rashly declare Jayavarma VII to be the greatest on an information board, only to downgrade him again to one of the greatest in the accompanying video, perhaps not wanting to put the others nose out of joint twice.
Then downstairs to galleries on Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Story from Stones and Ancient Costumes, the latter remarkably devoid of any actual costume replicas save those worn by the dancing girls in the video, though again some very fine statues. The leaflet promised I would learn how Angkor Wat was constructed, but I expected a bit more detail than basics such as how far they dragged the stones. There was quite a bit of detail about the compassionate Jayavarma VII and his construction of a network of roads, 'homes of light' and hospices as well as his defeat of the Cham and construction of Angkor Thom, all of which amounts to a pretty good CV. So although as far as I know he never claimed to move like a butterfly and sting like a bee, I think 'the greatest' title is well deserved.
In summary then, for those who like museums, this should soon be a very informative and interesting one and a welcome change from the typical cluttered room full of items you have to guess at. The admission fee will likely put of most backpackers who've already forked out the (infinitely better value for money) $20/40 for a pass to the temples and admittedly the idea of having a shopping mall attached does indicate it's whole purpose is to pull in the coachloads of wealthy retirees. However, for those willing to retain a grip on the reality of the value of things and stump up, I think by 2008 this museum may well be worth a visit as a scene setter before going exploring and discovering the temples for oneself.
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