Laurence's Travel Log 2007/8: Halong Bay boat trip day 2

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Halong Bay boat trip day 2

I went kayaking in the morning and some some sea hawks up pretty close.

It was then back to Halong City and Hanoi. On the way back we had a different driver who couldn't have been more different to the timid one on the way - we forced at least two motorbkies off the side of the road and narrowly missed oncoming trucks several times

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Tour recommendations

Asahi Tours
We booked our trek, rafting and safari through them and received a very good service. Our guide Indra was superb and porters well kitted out. Ask for Fani, who was very enthusiastic and helpful and understanding of our expectations of service. I used them again to try and get a visa for Tibet but liaised with a diffrent person, whose lack of communication over Tibet visas delay was frustrating. However Fani sorted a very good flight deal for me and free taxi to the airport by way of apology, which was an unusual and welcome gesture.

Rubicon Tours
My trip to Halong Bay was excellent value and if you book direct through them you will get a discount on the high street tour agencies and certainly the hotel prices.

Hotel/hostel recommendations

Bow Chiangmai Guesthouse, Chaing Mai

A family run place, with very friendly and helpful staff (they waited 2 hours for us after closing you need to get there by 8 ususally as after then it's keycard entry) tastfully decorated and a reasonable rate.

Best House, Koh Lanta

Beautiful place, lovely owners, we found it hard to leave.

Review - Lonely PLanet: SE Asia on a Shoestring

This was my first Lonely Planet purchase and while it seems to be the preferred choice of most people, I have to say it's been a mixed blessing. I went for the latest edition, but was suprised to discover the last update was March 2006, which must explain its inaccuaracies.

Sometimes it can be quite amusing how the travelling word begins with a lonely planet-ism such as there's only one ATM in Laos which is in Vietienne'': I counted 5 outside of Vietinene and there are at least half a dozen in the capital now. The pace of change is evidentally rapid across the region, espcaially in Laos and Cambodia and no-one would expect a book to be up-to-date with Visa situations and prices etc, but I have been suprised to find so many factual errors.

On the plus side, the maps are very useful and the potted histories and sights well written and informative. Obviously one is aware that lonely planet recommendations often hike thier prices, but the hotel listings are a good start.

However I get the impression that those responsible for checking up haven't been very thorough. For example, a guesthouse was mentioned in Chiang Khong and given an ok write up but the food wasn't mentioned, yet the place was renound and full every night serving up the best food for miles. I enquired how long they'd been doing it and it was several years before the last edition. Whoever wrote the review evidently just popped in to see a room.

Also, I don't think the LP would disagree that you must experience stuff yourself, but I do often find that sometimes the opinions it offers on places, especially the negative ones to be misplaced. A simple 'best viewed before the crowds decend' would be better than the off-putting 'tourist-trap best avoided' type entry.

So in summary - if you're going to SE Asia, don't get the all in one book from March 2006, go for the more up-to-date individual country versions, if not a more up-to-date rival.

Laurence's Travel Log 2007/8

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Halong Bay boat trip day 2

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Review - Lonely PLanet: SE Asia on a Shoestring